July was a very special month, because Tom’s parents came to visit! We had such a lovely time showing them around and giving them a sense of what life is like here in Vancouver. But it was also a chance for us to go on a trip and explore something new! We decided to book a ferry to the Sunshine Coast, an island we had heard good stories about. In particular, something called the ‘skookumchuck narrows’ was at the top of our list of things to experience there.
reaching the skookumchuck narrows
“Skookumchuck” is a word of Chinook Jargon origin, an indigenous trade language used in the Pacific Northwest. It translates to “strong water” or “turbulent water.” Located on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia, the Skookumchuck Narrows is a natural marvel where the tides of the Pacific Ocean converge with the waters of the Sechelt Inlet.
This sounds very familiar to me now, but before going on this hike, all I knew is that we would see a ‘narrow’ place where water does something special when the tides change. I had no concept of what it might look like, nor had I had time prior to our getaway to research it. For me, this preamble 100% added to the experience, because I was so in awe when I reached the water!
The moderate-level hike was approximately 8 kilometers round trip through lush coastal rainforest, and took us* through a diverse landscape of ancient trees, ferns, and moss-covered rocks. On this Sechelt Inlet Trail, you can expect some rough paths with exposed rocks and roots. With the elevation changes, you’ll find yourself needing to catch your breath here and there.
*By ‘us’ I mean Tom, his parents, myself, and several other hikers. There was one man in particular, let’s call him John, who brought our hike enjoyment to the next level! He walked with us for several kms on the way there and back.
the rapids
Prior to the hike, Tom had figured out that that particular night at 8.20 PM, the tide would be at its strongest. The statistics told us the rapids would be ‘XL’ in size tonight. Still not fully understanding what that meant, we followed the schedule and timed our hike accordingly. With a steady pace, we kept following the trail, and listened to John’s previous experiences. As a resident of the island, he had walked this trail many times before. He promised we would not be disappointed.
The sound of silence, hiker conversations, and birdsong suddenly changed into a roaring sound of rushing water. I remember being surprised by how much louder it grew as we approached the furthest point of the hike. It makes you step up your pace in anticipation of finally seeing what the fuss is all about.
The trail ends on a large rocky area which you can safely stand on. As we emerged from the forest onto this ‘observation deck’, our mouths dropped and all we could say was, “wow!”
what a place!
What a spectacle – churning waves, whirlpools, heaps and heaps of water surging. As the tides shift, the water rushes through the narrows with incredible force. The waves are much larger in person than it seems in the video above. Apparently, the waves can get up to 5.5 meters high!
My expectation was some kind of narrow passage that water would rush through, but it looked like quite a wide river. If you look it up on Google Maps though, you’ll see it’s indeed the narrowest section the water from the ocean goes through as it travels into the Sechelt Inlet.
taking it all in
John explained that this place is popular to professional kayakers and surfers. Cool as that may sound, it does not always end well. Several people have died, including search and rescue volunteers.
Once you have a chance to peel your eyes away from the water, you’ll see that the views are also stunning. As you can see in this picture, I particularly liked that section where two mountain dip and bring a mountain top further away into view. The picture here is basically: Indira: Tom, can you take a picture of that bit there? / Tom: What bit? / Indira: That bit! / Tom: What bit? / Indira: THAT B… / Tom: *Takes pic*.
It was getting late and it would get dark soon, so we had to start making the journey way back to the car. Not to fear though, John cheerfully joined us with his daughter, sharing not just nice conversation but also his spare flashlight.
Another experience richer, we returned to our Airbnb to rest up for the next day on the Sunshine Coast. If you’re ever making the trip… Don’t skip this hike and make sure to check the tidal schedule to see when the best time would be to see the Skookumchuck Narrows!
