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Obviously I am biased at this point, but if there’s one road trip I would recommend anyone to put on their bucket list, it’s the drive between Vancouver (British Columbia) and Calgary (Alberta). I’ve had the pleasure of driving it twice, once from Calgary to Vancouver and once from Vancouver to Calgary. In this post I’ll share a 10-day itinerary for you to copy or to draw inspiration from for your own trip.

If you are planning a vacation to Western Canada, please consider a roadtrip through the Canadian Rockies! Let me help you by outlining an example itinerary with some of my personal favourites and recommendations. 

Where to start?

If you’re planning to fly to Canada, you might be wondering which city to start from. A couple of considerations:

  • Coming here in the summer (end of June to end of August)? Then I would recommend to start in Calgary and make your way to Vancouver. Vancouver gives you mountains as well as beaches and the ocean, which makes summer in this area a dream. You’ll have more options for activities here. Calgary is… Eh, I don’t like Calgary as a city that much 🙂
  • For the shoulder seasons, it might be nicer to start in Vancouver and end in Calgary instead. There’s more rain in Vancouver, which may impact your experience. 
  • Something to keep in mind for budgeting is that renting a car in one city and returning it in the other is pretty expensive. If you have the time, doing it as a loop (start and end in the same city) might turn out to be cheaper. Do your research, and/or consider camping to lower costs. 
  • If you’re a camper kind of traveller, that’s definitely a popular choice, but it might not be cheaper than doing Airbnbs, hotels, and/or car camping. Again, do your research, and see what suits you best!

My most recent trip was early June from Vancouver to Calgary. This itinerary will be based on that route.

Day 1 | Vancouver to Kelowna

I’m going to start this itinerary with the first bit of driving toward the Rockies, but if you are starting (or ending) your vacation in Vancouver and have the time, please do consider taking a couple of days to explore Vancouver and the area! If you only have one day, here’s one way to spend it: One day in Vancouver: False Creek Ferries. For this post though, I’ll focus on the roadtrip-part.

For your first day of driving, you’re going to be headed to Kelowna. You’ve got two options here:

  • If you have the time, I recommend taking the southern route: Vancouver – Hope – Princeton – Penticton – Kelowna. Without traffic, this will take you about 4-5 hours. (457 km). What a drive. 
  • For a quicker route to Kelowna, take the route through Merritt: Vancouver – Hope – Merritt – Kelowna. This will be about 3-4 hours (391 km)

As you can see, both routes go through Hope. It’s a great place to stop for a pit stop. 

Blue Moose Coffee House

Make sure to make a stop at the Blue Moose Coffee House in Hope. I've stopped here for every trip to Kelowna. Great spot to order a coffee and a quick bite to eat. They have great sandwiches and pastries. Address: 322 Wallace Street, Hope, BC V0X1L0.

Day 2 | Morning hike and afternoon wine

After a good night’s sleep, get in your comfy walking or hiking gear. On the north side of Kelowna, Knox Mountain gives you a nice opportunity to see the surroundings from above. If you’re up for a workout, this 7K (2,5 hour) hike is a nice introduction to the area: 🥾 Paul’s Tomb, Ogopogo, Pavilion, and Apex Trails. I’d recommend doing this in the morning, then go and refresh yourself. Next, go to Sprout or Curious Café for lunch. Make it a big lunch, because you need to fuel up. Why? Because wine.

The Okanagan region is known for its great wines. I recommend booking a wine tour for the afternoon – I’ve done it three times and can’t wait to go again! It’s great fun being brought from one winery to the other, trying a few different wines at each stop. You visit a set of curated places, each one offering a different kind of wine experience. I’ve seen everything from fancy and decadent vibes (such as FRIND) to rural and quirky (such as Off The Grid where you can pet the goats and bunnies, or The Hatch which is like a shed/barn) and even Peaky Blinders vibey (specifically Crown & Thieves). If you go for a 3 PM tour, you’ll be brought back to your hotel/Airbnb by 6 or 7. From there, see how you’re feeling about food! The first time I came back from a wine tour with VIVID Tours, we went on Uber Eats and had a pizza delivered to our Airbnb.

The second time I did a wine tour, I actually stayed in Vernon, a bit north from Kelowna, and toured with Sip Happens. There are various businesses offering tours in different areas in the Okanagan, such as West Kelowna, East Kelowna, or Lake Country. Depending on where you stay, choose one that does pick up in the town your hotel or Airbnb is located in.

If you’d rather not go on a full tour, you can pick out specific wineries to visit and do tastings. There are also beer/cider tours, if you prefer that more.

June 5, 2024 | Sipping wine at Crown & Thieves
Vivid Tours

I've done a wine tour three times, two of those with Vivid Tours. They pick you up at your hotel or Airbnb and drive you to a selection of wineries. I've done a West Kelowna wine tour and an East Kelowna wine tour. The last time I did one in June 2024, I called them just a day before and they happily accommodated us for the next day. Us three girls got picked up by Fred in his bus that seated about 12 people. He took care of us and three other groups. As you can imagine, the last ride from the final winery back into Kelowna involved lots of laughter and singing to the music Fred let us play in the bus. Great time!

Day 3 | Chase waterfalls in Wells Grey Provincial Park

After your time in the Okanagan, you’re going to get up early and drive north west for a bit, into the heart of British Columbia: Wells Grey Provincial Park. Known for its stunning waterfalls, I was excited to go into this area for the first time! 

We picked out a place on Booking.com in the town of Clearwater. On the way there, we left highway 5 to go onto Dunn Lake Road. After a bumpy ride with no cell reception whatsoever, we finally made it to the Dunn Lake North Recreation Site. When the lake came into view, my mouth dropped. It was so quiet, serene, and humungous. There was not a soul around, just us and this huge chunk of nature. The sheer size is impossible to capture on camera, but below is my beautiful friend Melissa on the Dunn Lake dock. 

June 6, 2024 | Dunn Lake North Recreation Site

The drive from Kelowna to Dunn Lake is 3.5 hours. From here, it’s another 40 minutes to Clearwater. After checking into your place, it’s time to chase some waterfalls!

🥾 Spahat Falls | Not really a hike, just find the parking lot and follow the signs to the falls and lookout. You’ll feel as small as an ant standing up there

🥾 Helmcken Falls Rim Trail | When I was there, the north side was closed. We did a different trail on the other side of the water which was a nice trail. Fantastic views over the waterfall!

If you’d like to go for a more elaborate waterfall adventure, there are plenty of hikes around. I haven’t done this one, but this 4 hour hike looks pretty cool: 🥾 Birch Bluffs Trail, and this is a 1,5 hour loop that goes by Bailey’s Chute and Marcus Falls: 🥾 West Lake Loop via Bailey’s Chute.

Hop 'n Hog

Done exploring and worked up an appetite? If you're into meat and barbecue, go to Hop 'n Hog for dinner. You might find a queue when you arrive, but it's worth the wait!

June 7, 2024 | Helmcken Falls
June 7, 2024 | Spahat Falls
June 7, 2024 | The view from the Spahat Falls platform

Day 4 | Drive to Jasper

Wells Grey Provincial Park is pretty cool, but it’s time to jump back into the car and go on route to the real deal… The Canadian Rockies! You’re going to drive north and cross the border from British Columbia into Alberta. When you do, keep in mind that you’ll move into a different time zone, so you’ll lose an hour of your day here.

On your way to Jasper, make a stop in Valemount, a cute railroad town. We had a delicious baguette at thee Valemount Bakery (1020 Main St, Valemount, BC V0E 2Z0). Not long after this town, you’ll take a right turn past Mount Robson and into Jasper National Park.

Going into the National Park, you’ll reach what looks like border control booths where you’ll be required to purchase a pass for the duration of your stay in the area. Just tell them how many days you’ll be spending time in Jasper and Banff, and then hang your pass on your rearview mirror.

You may have heard that Jasper suffered devastating wildfires in the summer of 2024. One-third of the town of Jasper burned down in what was the largest wildfire in Jasper National Park in over 100 years. By August, the fire covered 34,000 hectares and firefighters lost a brave colleague and friend. As the community, town, and nature recovers, please do your research before you go. I’ll share my recommendations based on my trip, but unfortunately I am not sure for all these locations how things are there at the moment. For hikes, check reviews on AllTrails to find out what recent hikers have said about the trails and surroundings.

Where to stay?

Staying in and around Jasper is terribly expensive. We stayed in Hinton (Days Inn by Wyndham Hinton) which meant lots of driving back and forth, but it was cheaper and gas was also very cheap there. With the changed circumstances in Jasper, check what's available and feasibly for you - if you can, consider supporting the locals by staying and/or eating and shopping local.

Day 5 | visit Maligne Lake

Jasper National Park is a one of Canada’s most renowned natural treasures, known for its stunning landscapes and wildlife. It’s the largest national park in the Canadian Rockies and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As you can imagine, it’s a wonderland for hikers. I prefer Jasper National Park over Banff National Park, but it’s hard to put my finger on why that is. Something you’ll have to go and see for yourself! 

On my second trip to Jasper, I saw Maligne Lake for the first time. I couldn’t believe my eyes when we pulled up on this little bridge on our way to the hike we wanted to do. It looked like a painting, but to prove I was really there, here’s me blocking the view as I look over the Maligne River. 

June 9, 2024 | Maligne Lake Road. If you want to find this bridge, use these coordinates: 52.72831836460089, -117.64423761194111

From here, you can take a boat ride on the lake, enjoy the restaurant by the lake, take in the beauty around you… For us, the activity was going to be a hike.

From this bridge, it was just about a minute further to the Bald Hills Trail, which we chose after considering several other options. It was still early in the season, which meant many hikes were still covered in snow. Based on reviews on AllTrails, we decided to go for Bald Hills – we knew there would be snow and we might not be able to do the full thing, but we agreed to go up as far as we could and just turn back if it got too challenging – the views on the way would be great either way. 

🥾 Bald Hills Loop on AllTrails

In the end, we managed to get to the Overlook point and then looped back down. The hike to the summit was impossible for us to complete without snow gear. But that was fine, because this view was already such a treat! 

Funny story, when we reached this viewpoint, a German couple also arrived, and we offered to take pictures of each other. As I was focusing the man’s camera on them, I said “wait a minute… haven’t I taken a photo of you before?” Turned out, just a few days prior we also met this couple in Wells Grey Provincial Park and we took photos for each other there too! 

June 9, 2024 | The view from the Bald Hills hike. This is not the summit though!

Day 6 | spend another day in and around Jasper

June 10, 2024 | On Whistlers Mountain in Jasper

Take the Jasper Skytram

The Jasper SkyTram is an aerial tramway that takes you from the valley floor near the town of Jasper to the upper station on Whistlers Mountain. The tramway is the longest and highest guided aerial tramway in Canada with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, lakes, and valleys. On our 7.5 minute ride up, a charming 20-year old English guy performed his well-timed and joke-filled presentation about the tram, the area, and the mountain.

🚡 Jasper Skytram (Whistlers Road, Jasper, Alberta, Canada T0E 1E0)

One of the interesting facts he shared was how this mountain gets its name from the whistling sounds made by the hoary marmots that inhabit the area. They use their whistling calls as a form of communication, particularly to alert others of potential danger. But how do they survive here? The mountain is pretty rocky and bald save for some sparse spurts of grass… The guide requested everyone to stay on the trail – hoary marmots are well-adapted to the alpine environment of Whistlers Mountain, but let’s not make it any harder for them by stepping all over what little vegetation there is. (Just a note that this place should not be confused by the town Whistler, which is a skiing/mountain biking paradise 2 hours north from Vancouver, though that place is probably also named after the marmots 🙃).

Tickets for the Skytram are $67.00 for adults. Pretty steep, but we wanted to do one gondola on our trip and picked this one over the Banff gondola. The views were incredible. Looking at these pictures again, I can’t believe I was up there. 

June 10, 2024 | On Whistlers Mountain in Jasper, overlooking the town and the lakes

Day 7 | Drive the Icefields Parkway toward Banff

Here comes another highlight! The Icefields Parkway is often referred to as (one of) the most scenic drives in the world. I can’t say it’s an exaggeration – really, it is pretty incredible. On this route, there are many note-worthy places for you to stop. I’ll share here a few of my faves in chronological order as you make your way from Jasper down to Banff. 

September 1, 2023 | Valley of the Five Lakes

Valley of the Five Lakes

If you’re starting in Jasper, this would be one of the first things you pass. A very accessible and easy start of the long drive, the Valley of the Five Lakes is a family-friendly hike, looping along 5 beautiful lakes. They’re relatively small, the walk doesn’t have much elevation, and yet you can enjoy and marvel at the gorgeous shades of blue and emerald 💚

🥾 Valley of the Five Lakes | Make sure you check if it’s open when you go. It’s directly south of Jasper town so it was affected by the wildfires.

Athabasca Falls

“The 23-metre Athabasca Falls is not very high by Canadian Rockies standards, but the size of the river makes it one of the most powerful falls to be found in the mountain national parks.” (Parks Canada)

Your next stop could be the Athabasca Falls; if not to be impressed by the waterfall, then just to get to know the main river that flows along this route. The river starts at the Columbia Glacier, which you will drive past later on. Here, at the falls, it has another 1425 kms to go until it reaches Lake Athabasca (wayyyyy north in Alberta), where the river ends. 

You won’t spend all that much time here; after all, this is only 30 minutes from the Valley of the Five Lakes. Take it in, take some pics, and hop back into your car. On to the next stop!

June 11, 2024 | Athabasca Falls
September 1, 2024 | Goats & Glacier Lookout

Random stops

Keep your eyes peeled for viewpoints where you can pull over for a bit to enjoy the views.

This one was called the Goats & Glaciers Lookout, absolutely loved this scenic spot! You can get out and do a little short trail. Keep your AllTrails app handy to check where some nice trail opportunities are hiding off the highway,

From here, you’ll pass Sunwapta Falls, and a bunch more other scenic spots. You might notice that the weather starts to turn though. Or at least that happened twice when I was there; the closer you get to the Athabasca glacier, the colder and potentially wetter it seems to get. The direct area around the glacier is very touristy, with buses driving onto the glacier (which I really wish they didn’t do that). There’s a skywalk and some other tour options. 

Peyto Lake

This is one of my favourites. When you arrive at the parking lot for Peyto Lake and follow the signage to the busy viewpoint deck, don’t be too quick to leave. There’s a really cool other viewpoint more to the left of the deck which is where this photo was taken. 

If you need some help locating it, use the AllTrails link below.

🥾 Peyto Lake Panorama View

From here, you’re very close to Lake Louise and Banff. The thing is, Banff is such an expensive place – kind of like Jasper – and so I recommend finding accommodation options in surrounding towns. For me, that was Golden, which is 1,5 hours from Peyto Lake and – surprise! – is located in British Columbia. Don’t worry though, as it’s so close to Alberta, Golden follows Alberta’s timezone, so you don’t have to go back and forth when it comes to your clock.

June 11, 2024 | Peyto Lake
Where to eat?

If you're staying in Golden, The Wolf's Den is a nice and cozy place to eat! We went twice, because the other restaurants we looked at couldn't beat the menu 😊 I also had dinner at Reposados the first time I was in Golden, which was a nice Mexican place with a lovely patio.

Day 8 | Hike in Banff National Park

You’ve now made it to the Banff side of the Icefields Parkway. And when you’re in Banff, you visit Lake Louise. Sigh… What can I say? It’s incredibly touristy, but it’s popular for a reason. If you’re reasonably fit and up for a little more adventure, here’s what I recommend: don’t go to just see the lake. You’ll be one of hundreds, you’ll get frustrated with how many people there are and how people won’t get out of the way as you try to take your photo. Instead, prepare for a hike visit that goes further than the rest of the crowd. 

Getting a Lake Louise shuttle bus pass

To control the big crowds, visitors need a shuttle bus pass to be able to get to Lake Louise. You can reserve a pass two days prior to your visit, at 8 AM local time, so you will have to decide when you go exactly. Remember, if you are not in the Alberta time zone yet, you need to double check what time time slot reservations open. The slots can be gone in just a few minutes. The link you need is: https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/parkbus/louise

Scroll down to Parks Canada Shuttles, hit the Reserve Now button. On the white box you get next, click on “Day Use” and pick “Shuttle to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake”. Next, you’ll get a map. Click on Shuttle.

Next, you’ll get time slots for Lake Louise and for Moraine Lake. Pick the morning OR midday option, but preferably the morning. If the Lake Louise options are full by the time you get to this screen, an alternative is to start at Moraine Lake (again, morning or midday). In this case, you will take the shuttle to Moraine first, have a look around, and then hop on the shuttle to Lake Louise. This option is more than fine as well. 

If you ask me, Moraine Lake is even more beautiful. It’s gor-geous. For that reason, I’d recommend to save it for after Lake Louise, but it’s not terrible to start at Moraine. Lake Louise just suddenly might seem a tad less impressive. But that’s just my opinion 😊

Getting to Lake Louise

On the day, drive to the Lake Louise Park & Ride. Make sure you have your reservation ready on your phone, avoid having no reception to load your shuttle booking! Once you’re there, try not to wince too much at how many cars are already parked. From the parking lot, make your way to the tents, where you can line up to check in and join the queue for the next shuttle to Lake Louise. 

Enjoy a hike

Lake Louise is a wonderful sight to see. When you arrive, the first thing you’ll want to do is stare at it and take some photos. That’s what everyone else is doing too, you’ll see 😉 Here are some of my photos from August 2023 and June 2024. When I was there in June, the lake had only just melted, so it was super clear and crisp and there was still lots of snow in the background. What you don’t see on these photos is that behind the photographer there’s a huge Fairmont hotel that looks like a Disney castle.

August 29, 2023 | At Lake Louise with Agniezska, Erik, and Tom
June 13, 2024 | At Lake Louise with Vera and Melissa

Walk alongside the lake toward the right, and follow the signs for the Lake Agnes Trail. The first lake you’ll reach is Mirror Lake. It’s pretty steep, so you’ll work up a sweat quite quickly. You’ll notice that until here, it can be quite busy. Most people continue the trail toward Lake Agnes, perhaps followed by the Big Beehive. However, what we did was go further up to Mount St. Piran.

🥾 Mount St. Piran Loop

A challenging hike with 937m elevation, but 100% worth the effort. We followed the advice of many reviews on AllTrails and turned back the same way after reaching the top. Apparently, going down the other side is very steep and dangerous. On the way back, we stopped at Lake Agnes before making our way further down back to the parking area. Though it was a tough one, the scenery on this hike was amazing as you can tell from the pictures below.

 

The shuttle pass gives you access to both Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, so after Piran we hopped on the shuttle to Moraine Lake. Exhausted from the hike, I didn’t go up onto the rocks that first time in August 2023, but strolled by the side of the lake. Wonderful views, and with the early evening glow the light was so beautiful. 

The second time around, we only went up to Mirror Lake and then turned back around (it started to get tricky with patches of snow from that point), so plenty of energy left this time to see Moraine Lake from a higher angle. I was baffled by the color of the water in June; it’s soooooo bright! Just like Lake Louise, the lake had only recently melted, so it really had that icy blue quality to it. And seeing the backdrop with the snow… Magical. If you have the chance to go twice, do it and go experience the difference! The pictures don’t do it justice at all.

August 29, 2023 | Moraine Lake from the side of the lake, end of summer
June 13, 2024 | Moraine Lake from the viewpoint, late spring/early summer

Day 9 | Yoho National Park

A highlight of Yoho National Park is Emerald Lake. Especially on a sunny day, the color of this lake is just so special! You can choose to just do a loop around the lake, but if you want to see a bit more, there are several trails surrounding the lake.

🥾 Emerald Basin and Emerald Lakeshore 

We chose the Emerald Basin Trail, which got us up close to the Emerald Glacier.

August 30, 2023 | With my fellow Rocky adventurers
August 30, 2023 | On the Emerald Basin Trail

Day 10 | visit banff & Drive to Calgary

Visit Banff

Now that you’re in Banff National Park, of course you can’t skip Banff itself. Banff is a resort town with a population of about 8,000 people. It’s also one of Canada’s most popular tourist destinations, so it’s always pretty busy around there. That said, it’s a cute place, and nice to explore for its restaurants and shops. When you’re there, consider paying a visit to the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel too – it’s a gorgeous castle-like luxury hotel. Even though you’re probably not going to be sleeping there ever, you can still go in and look around. You’ll feel a little bit like you’re walking the halls of the Harry Potter castle. Definitely something to experience!

June 12, 2024 | Lake Minnewanka

Lake Minnewanka

Just 20 minutes away from the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel you’ll find Lake Minnewanka, a glacial lake with one of those super picturesque mini islands on the water. Another gorgeous place! We did a short trail there in the canyon to the south west of the lake, but if you have a bit more time, try the lakeside trail instead.

🥾 Stewart Canyon Trail (5.8 km)
🥾 Lake Minnewanka Lakeside Trail (15.6 km)

You can also take a cruise on the lake and learn more about the history of the place. 

Drive to Calgary… Vancouver to Calgary roadtrip complete!

All good things come to an end… Are you ready to leave the mountains? As you head from Banff to Calgary you’ll pretty quickly see your surroundings change to flat lands.

I can’t say much about Calgary as I haven’t spent much time there. I think a day or two would be more than enough if you want to end with a little city trip – if not, then just go for the airport 😉

As I mentioned at the start of this post, if you have a longer vacation you could loop back to Vancouver from here, so you can return your rental car at the same place. If not, it’s time to say goodbye to the most beautiful side of Canada!

If you’re going to venture out here, please feel free to shoot me a message for more recommendations. Happy trip planning!

When a friend of ours said her dream was to celebrate her birthday hiking to a hut with a group of friends, of course we said we’d be there. And so one weekend in July, we put on our hiking shoes and packed our backpacks for an overnight hike to Watersprite Lake.

Getting geared up for Watersprite Lake

That sounds simpler than it really was though. We had gone camping once before and got ourselves a proper tent for it, but that’s not a tent that you can carry up a mountain with 700 meters elevation. Likewise, we got one sleeping bag that was big enough to share, and a two-person air mattress – both items unsuitable for backpacking.

Thankfully, we were assigned a spot in the hut, so we didn’t need another tent. We did, however, need sleeping mats, sleeping bags, and pillows, all small enough to fit into a backpack. After visiting Mountain Warehouse, Canadian Tire, and Mountain Equipment Company, we had all the stuff we needed for this adventure.

At the trailhead for the Watersprite Lake hike
Mountainous view over the valley as we hike toward Watersprite Lake

The ride up to Watersprite Lake Trailhead

We bought a car a few months ago and chose a vehicle that would allow us to go on adventures like these. A bit older, some scratches so we’re not too worried about scratching it more, 4-wheel drive, and enough space to transport stuff like tents, paddle boards… Or in this case, a bunch of backpacks from people driving with us. Given that our car would be suitable for the bumpy drive to the trailhead, we offered to drive, so we picked up a few members of the birthday crew and made our way up to Squamish. 

The Watersprite Lake Trailhead is located roughly 20 kilometers up a bunch of Forestry Service Roads. Once we got to the start of the road, our navigation said it would be a 50 minute drive to the trailhead. And what a drive it was. We were bumping and shaking to and fro in the car. Tom had his eyes peeled on the road, with full focus, while us ladies chatted to calm the nerves. We made it through steep inclines and over enormous holes in the road. We arrived safely, apart from the high heart rate and possibly some bruises from bumping our heads to the windows and doors and each other.

Birthday girl was there already, along with the peeps that were with her in Car #1. We were the second vehicle to arrive, Car #2. It wasn’t long until Car #3 arrived with familiar faces. Great, we just needed to wait for one more, and we’d be ready to go.

Car trouble

We waited. And waited. And waited some more. Until it didn’t make sense any longer – where were they? With no cell reception, there was no way of knowing the location of #4, and we could not contact them to find out if they were okay. Other cars arrived at the trailhead, so we asked them if they had seen anyone stranded on the way here. “Yes,” one driver eventually answered. “Yes, there was a car on the side of the road. Transmission problems.”

Darn it! So Car #3 went to go find them. Based on the description of where they had seen the stranded car, he set out to go find them. Meanwhile, we waited, and waited. And waited some more. Until suddenly, a random car arrived, and the folks we were waiting for got out of the car, celebrating their arrival…

Wait a minute?

Turns out, a friendly couple had offered them a ride up to the trailhead. The stranded group decided to split up: the driver would go back and take care of Car #4 – it couldn’t possible continue up the steep road, but driving down seemed okay. Unfortunately, it meant he had to skip the hike. The rest of the group accepted the friendly help and took the ride to the trailhead. 

Which was great. Here they were! But… our rescuer in Car #3 didn’t know any of this, and was still out there searching for them!

We waited. And waited. Until eventually he returned, sad faced, feeling bad for not finding our remaining hiking buddies. But of course, he was relieved to find out they had found their way up after all!

Hiking to Watersprite Lake

With a 1,5-2 hour delay, we finally started to make our way up. To get to Watersprite Lake, you’re in for a 9km hike with about 700 meters of elevation. It’s quite a long one – we took about 5 hours to get up, including one lunch break and a few short breaks to drink some water and confirming we’re all still here (16-person group!). 

You’ll need a good amount of bug spray (gosh bugs flying around EVERYWHERE) and you’ll work up a serious sweat… But in return, you get beautiful meadows, waterfalls, beautiful forests. There are still snowy peaks around you, you’ll see glaciers, gorgeous views over the valley and river. It was quite a warm day, so we brought lots of water. We refilled our bottles when we passed a waterfall with fresh water.

When we arrived, I was surprised to see that the hut was quite large and had a really nice deck overlooking the mountains. We explored our home for the night, then went to the lake to swim and refresh. The water was cold, but very rewarding and refreshing after the tiring journey. Half of our group had to hike a little bit further and set up their tents on the campground across the water. They took a refreshing swim, too!

AllTrails labels the hike as Hard; I’d say it’s moderate with a hard part at the end where you have to scramble a bit over 3 sections of large rockslides. After being treated to all that beauty on the way, Watersprite Lake itself is quite the climax. What a gorgeous place. I don’t know how many wonderful shades of blue my eyes have been treated to since arriving in Canada, but this lake was a magnificent addition. It was so crystal clear that it had a gorgeous reflection, great material for some impressive photos.

Wonderful evening

Time to cook! The hut was well equipped. We connected our propane tanks, and soon everyone was cooking the meals they brought. From dehydrated hiking meals to fresh veggies for couscous salads, everyone come out of the kitchen with their own creations. Tom and I brought 4 packs of Pancit Canton noodles, and managed to bring 2 fresh eggs to add on top. Thankfully they didn’t break on the way up the mountain 😉

Apart from dinner, most of our group brought some birthday surprises, including a massive 7 liter bag of red wine (imagine the weight of that in their backpack!), cupcakes and birthday candles, birthday decorations, and… a silent disco set.

Plenty of fun!

Until we went to sleep on those sleeping mats. That was less fun. But oh well, it is what it is.

The way back

The next morning, some went for another swim in the lake, and we each made breakfast, spent a bit more time enjoying the hut with the group… Then cleared out everything and packed up all our stuff to make our way back to the cars. It took us about 3 hours to venture down. The views were fantastic again, but with barely any sleep, the hike was a bit more challenging in terms of energy. The hike required a lot of attention and strong knees. Thankfully, the hardest part was right at the beginning, so after we had climbed and bouldered our way through the big rocky part, the forest paths were a lot more manageable.

Getting home

Once we finally reached the car, we were all very tired. With only breakfast and a few snacks, our fuel was low. Once we had reception, it was clear that there was quite a lot of traffic on the Sea to Sky Highway back to Vancouver. Would we suck it up and get home asap, or go into Squamish first to get a decent lunch first? We decided on the latter, and I’m so glad we did. That burger was much needed to make us feel like ourselves again, and made the way back a lot more pleasant. Tom drove us home safely.

By the time the clock hit 9 pm, my eyes hit 6 o’ clock. I slept like a heavy log in the sky-blue water of Watersprite Lake, on my deliciously thick and soft mattress and familiar pillow. 

A weekend to never forget!

It was the May long weekend, and we wanted to go out for a nice hike! We meant to go to do the Tunnel Bluffs hike, but when we got there we couldn’t for the life of us find a parking spot… So we decided to drive on, further up toward Squamish, and look for an alternative. I browsed my AllTrails app and found a promising one… The Slhanay Peak Trail didn’t disappoint!

Way less well-known than the famous Stawamus Chief, Slhanay Peak can be found just north from it in the Coast Mountains, close to the town of Squamish. At about 650 meters, the peak offers gorgeous views of the town and an opportunity to see the much-hiked Chief from a different vantage point. It overlaps a little bit with the Chief hike, so if you’ve done that one before, you’ll see some familiar rocks that you need to navigate over.

I find the names of areas here very intriguing, and have been wondering for a while not only how to pronounce Slhanay (‘slah-nay’) but also what its meaning is. I learned that originally, the peak was disrespectfully called the Stawamus Squaw. “Squaw” is a rather controversial word, used by early European settlers and traders in North America to describe Native American women. 

Though the word had a neutral meaning originally, over time it was used in very negative ways to imply inferiority and dehumanization of (indigenous North American) women. Transformed into such a derogatory and racist term, the name of this peak needed to change. This place is situation on traditional territory with significant cultural importance to the Sḵwx̱wú7mesh nation; renaming it was long overdue. In 2009, the new name Slhanay (woman), was introduced in consultation with the local First Nations.

You’ll find the start of the Slhanay Peak Trail on a gravel road, just past the Stawamus Chief trail but before you reach the town of Squamish. The gravel road is the same one you would take if you wanted to drive up to the Mamquam Falls.

Keep in mind that this hike is classified as Hard – I’d say moderately hard – so make sure you are well prepared. Wear proper walking shoes, consider bringing poles (we were fine without them but I can see how they may be useful), bring plenty of water if you go on a warm day, and I recommend using the AllTrails navigation. It saved us a couple of times when we were about to get lost; my phone started buzzing when we missed a turn onto a trail that was hard to see. Thank you AllTrails. 

The trail is about 6 KM and it took us just over 4 hours. This included two breaks to fly my new drone for the first time 💛

The trail has some really fun variety that made it an interesting and worth the four hour work-out. The trail is a bit of an 8-shape, so it’s out-and-back but with a few loops that prevent you from having to take the exact same route back. There’s steep inclines, beautiful forest, also sections of more relaxed walking, flowers, impressive granite rock, a bit of technical climbing/scrambling… A little bit of everything.

Doing those steep sections made me a bit weary for the way back, especially considering there was some scrambling involved… As expected, the way back was quite challenging and straining on the knees and ankles. We were glad that we built up some experience and some hiking muscle; I don’t think I would have been able to do it in the first months we were here 😅

The route had 4 main lookout points, such amazing views. Looking out over Squamish and being able to see so far into the valley was incredible! Still a little bit of snow on the peaks around us… And The Chief. Gosh. It’s just such a unique peak to look at!

At the top of the trail, a couple was enjoying the view, and they offered to snap a photo of us. The guy was born here in Vancouver, the girl was from Toronto. We talked about how amazing it is to us to be able to just drive out on a Monday morning and be in this incredible mountainous place. I keep saying this, but I hope I’ll never get used to it – love this incredulous feeling!

Remember when I said the snow has been terrible this year? Well, it has, but after I last posted there were a couple of good snow dumps on the mountains, so we made the most of it and went night skiing a few times. Our goal was to gain confidence in skiing, and to hopefully enjoy some beautiful views. The latter turned out to be harder than we thought!

Living in the West End of downtown Vancouver is great for many reasons, and one of them is how close we are to the Lions Gate Bridge. Getting to the North Shore is so quick from here! A 30 minute drive brings you to Cypress Mountain Resort, one of the three skiing spots directly around Vancouver. Unfortunately, it wasn’t until January that the snow was good enough to hit the slopes. Here’s our short story of how it was for us this mini skiing season.

learning without the views

The first few times we went skiing here in Canada, the conditions weren’t great. Our first time at Big White Mountain in the Okanagan (Feb 2022); it was snowing and fully overcast, but it was our first-ever lesson, so we were too focused on not breaking our knees to be fussed about not having clear blue skies. Our second time was in Whistler (Dec 2023) – we did quite well in that lesson, but unfortunately it was another overcast day. We didn’t get to see Whistler in its full glory.

Our third time was an evening at Cypress Mountain in January, but the sun goes down at 4 PM in that period, so it was pitch black once we were up there. We were still getting used to skiing, so we stayed in the Easy Rider section, while our lovely Dutch friends did their own thing on the black runs. They gave us their stamp of approval when they came to check us out, so we thought next time we’d try and ‘graduate’ to the green runs.

First time on Cypress Mountain, 16 January 2024
Second time night skiing on Cypress Mountain, 1 March 2024

Getting the hang of it (and the views)!

‘Next time’ took a bit long though, mostly due to poor snow conditions. On 1 March, we made our way to the Easy Rider hill again for a few practice runs before trying the green run. We were so excited to finally have a chance to look out over the ocean and the city! Sure enough, that night we could see the pretty city lights in the distance. 

We were back a week later, rushing after work to try and have some sunlight left! On 7 March we brought up the courage to take the higher lift, up to the top, so we could go to the sunset spot. We were on time for the sunset, but unfortunately a big misty cloud blocked the view (see our last post). OH well. At least we had a chance to practice going down all the way from the top. It went pretty well, so it was really encouraging! After the sun had gone down, it cleared up very nicely, so once again we had some really pretty city lights to marvel at. Will we still get to see the real thing, with the ski season coming to an end this month?

A few days later, Tom gave it another try. He video called me to show me the GORGEOUS view. And so I joined him a few days later when the weather forecast was looking pristine. And oh my gosh. It was so beautiful. 15 March, on the top, incredible visibility, fantastic sunset. Seeing this place from the ground is already so amazing – the Sea to Sky highway is mind-blowingly beautiful. Absolutely loved seeing these surroundings from above! Skiing back down, the sky kept its vivid red and yellow colour for another 20 minutes. Gorgeous!

View over The Lions, also known as the Two Sisters
Heading down after the sunset was so pretty with the vivid colours!

Unfortunately, that was also the last time I was up there. It’s 12 April now, and night skiing is no longer available. Cypress Mountain is preparing for the summer season, and so am I. The thick winter clothes have been swapped for the spring and summer wardrobe, and my helmet and ski clothes are tucked away in a box. It’s too bad that the conditions were so limited this year, and that we didn’t get to try Whistler again. But hey. Another chance next season, which hopefully starts as ‘normal’ in November/December.